Reims

About Reims

Reims is one of the best places to start a trip through Champagne, France, especially if you want history and wine without staying in Paris. The city is easy to reach by high-speed train, with services from Paris Gare de l’Est taking roughly 45 minutes to Reims station, although schedules and journey times vary. Begin around Notre-Dame de Reims, the enormous Gothic cathedral where many French kings were crowned. Its carved façade deserves a slow look, and the interior is usually calmer outside the busiest daytime period. The cathedral can be crowded with tour groups, particularly in the warmer months, so arriving in the morning or later in the afternoon makes the visit more comfortable. Nearby, the Palais du Tau adds royal history, while the Musée des Beaux-Arts is a sensible stop if you need an indoor break. Families may find the cathedral impressive but not endlessly entertaining for young children, so keep the visit manageable and leave time for a pastry or hot chocolate around Place Drouet-d’Erlon. This central area is convenient, but restaurants there can feel more tourist-focused than the smaller streets around Place du Forum and the old town.

Champagne is the main reason many visitors choose Reims, and the famous Reims Champagne houses are worth planning rather than approaching spontaneously. Taittinger, Veuve Clicquot, Pommery and Ruinart all have historic cellars or visitor experiences associated with the city, but availability, languages, age restrictions and tour formats change, so check directly with each house before travelling. Some cellars involve stairs, uneven floors and cool temperatures, which is useful to know if you are travelling with children, have limited mobility or dislike underground spaces. Tastings are generally aimed at adults, and bringing young children along may not be practical even when a visit technically allows them. For a more local-feeling day, consider travelling beyond the city into the Montagne de Reims or the Vallée de la Marne, where vineyard villages and independent producers offer a different perspective on Champagne production. A car gives you flexibility, but drinking and driving is an obvious concern, so a guided excursion or driver is the safer choice. Reims itself is walkable in the centre, though the broad avenues and visits spread across town can make the day tiring with small children.

Food in Reims is another good reason to stay at least one night. Look for biscuits roses de Reims, the pink biscuits traditionally served with Champagne, and try regional dishes such as pâté en croûte, ham from the Ardennes area and local cheeses. The city has restaurants at several price levels, but popular tables can fill quickly at dinner, especially on weekends. I prefer leaving room for an unhurried lunch and taking a break in Parc de Champagne, a useful green space when everyone needs to run around rather than admire another monument. The Musée de la Reddition, where the German surrender was signed in 1945, is small but historically important and often overlooked; it suits adults and older children more than toddlers. Stay near the cathedral, the station or the pedestrian centre for the easiest first visit, while couples might prefer a quieter hotel on the edge of the central streets. Reims works well as a two-day city break, but it can also be a rushed day trip. If Champagne tastings, museums and a proper meal are part of your plan, sleeping in the city gives you a much better pace and avoids trying to fit every important stop between train times.

Sightseeing in Reims

Reims is one of the best places in France for combining historic sightseeing with Champagne culture, and its compact centre makes the main attractions manageable on foot. Start at Notre-Dame de Reims, the city’s extraordinary Gothic cathedral and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its carved façade is packed with kings, saints and small details that reward a slow look rather than a quick photograph. The cathedral was closely associated with the coronation of French kings, and the smiling angel on the western façade has become one of its most recognisable features. Go early in the day if you want a quieter visit, especially during summer and school holidays. The square can fill quickly with tour groups, and the interior feels less peaceful when several groups arrive together. Beside the cathedral, the Palais du Tau adds useful historical context, with displays connected to the coronations and the cathedral’s religious treasures. I would allow at least two hours for both sites, more if you enjoy architecture, sculpture and medieval history. The broad pedestrian streets around Place Drouet d’Erlon are convenient for a coffee afterwards, though the restaurants there are generally more about location than memorable food.

A short walk takes you towards the city’s older Roman and medieval traces. Look for the Porte de Mars, a substantial Roman triumphal arch near the railway station, and make time for the art deco Bibliothèque Carnegie, whose elegant interior reflects Reims’ rebuilding after the First World War. The city suffered heavy damage during that conflict, so its architecture is an unusual mix of medieval monuments, reconstructed streets and early twentieth-century design. For a more local pause, visit Halles du Boulingrin, the covered market, where the atmosphere is best when traders are serving residents rather than packing up. Opening days and times can vary, so check locally before making it the centre of your morning. Food-focused travellers should look for regional specialities such as biscuit rose de Reims, a pale pink finger-shaped biscuit traditionally served with Champagne, along with cheeses, charcuterie and seasonal produce. It is not the kind of market where you need a strict itinerary. Pick up something small, sit down, and let your feet recover. Families may prefer the open space around the market, while couples looking for a slower break can wander towards the calmer streets near the cathedral and Place Royale.

The biggest draw beyond the historic centre is, naturally, Champagne tourism in Reims. Major houses including Veuve Clicquot, Taittinger, Pommery and Ruinart have visitor experiences in or near the city, with tours descending into chalk cellars known as crayères. These underground galleries are cool, atmospheric and genuinely interesting, but tours often need advance reservations and may not suit very young children. Some houses are grand and polished, while smaller producers in nearby villages usually offer a more personal introduction to vineyards, blending and bottle ageing. Reims itself is a practical base, but the best vineyard scenery lies outside the urban area in the Montagne de Reims and Vallée de la Marne. A guided excursion is sensible if you plan to taste several Champagnes, since driving after drinking is not worth the risk. Prices can also rise quickly at prestigious houses, so compare what each visit includes instead of choosing purely by reputation. For travellers who are not interested in wine, the Foujita Chapel, created by artist Léonard Foujita, offers a quieter cultural stop, and the Musée des Beaux-Arts has works spanning several centuries, although its displays and access arrangements can change during renovation or exhibition periods.

After a morning of museums and monuments, Parc de Champagne gives you room to slow down, with lawns and paths that work well for a family picnic or an easy stroll. It is not right beside the cathedral, so use the tram or a taxi if small children are already tired. Reims is generally easy to explore without a car in the centre, and the tram connects key areas, but comfortable shoes matter because a sightseeing day involves more walking than the map suggests. The Saint-Remi district deserves an afternoon of its own: Basilique Saint-Remi, with its Romanesque and Gothic elements, is less crowded than Notre-Dame and has a more reflective atmosphere. Nearby, the Musée Saint-Remi occupies a former abbey and covers local history from ancient times through the medieval period. It is a strong choice for visitors who want more than Champagne tasting, though the scale can be tiring for younger children. I would plan one major museum, one outdoor stop and one long café break per day rather than racing between every attraction. Reims is at its most enjoyable when you leave space for an unplanned pastry, a quiet church interior or a slow glass of Champagne at the end of the afternoon.

Hotels in Reims

Hotels in Reims, France range from polished luxury properties beside Notre-Dame Cathedral to practical budget rooms near the railway station. For a first visit, staying in the central area is usually the easiest choice. The streets around Place Drouet d’Erlon, Rue de Vesle and the cathedral put restaurants, cafés, museums and the main shopping streets within a manageable walk. The advantage is convenience, especially if you are travelling with children or have only a weekend. The downside is that central streets can be noisy in the evening, particularly around Place Drouet d’Erlon, where bars and restaurants stay lively. I would look closely at recent guest comments about soundproofing rather than assuming a four-star label guarantees a quiet night. Travellers arriving by train should also compare the walk from Reims Centre station with the location of their hotel, as rolling luggage over cobbled or uneven streets is less fun than it sounds.

For a comfortable city break, La Caserne Chanzy Hotel & Spa has an especially central setting opposite the cathedral, while Best Western Premier Hôtel de la Paix is well placed near the pedestrian centre and is a popular option for couples and short stays. Continental Hotel Reims suits visitors who want to be close to the station and Place Drouet d’Erlon, although that central position can bring more street activity. At the luxury end, Domaine Les Crayères offers a very different experience in a leafy part of the city, with a celebrated restaurant and a more peaceful atmosphere, but it is not the most practical base if you plan to return to the centre several times a day. Families may prefer a modern chain hotel with larger rooms, lift access and parking over a romantic boutique property with limited space. Always check the current room layout, air conditioning, cot policy and whether breakfast is included, since these details vary considerably between Reims hotels.

Location matters even more if champagne tasting is high on your list. Houses such as Taittinger, Pommery, Veuve Clicquot and Ruinart are on the southeastern side of Reims rather than clustered beside the cathedral, so a hotel near the historic centre is not automatically close to every cellar tour. Tours often require advance booking, and public transport or a taxi can be more sensible than trying to fit several visits around a long walk. The Boulingrin district, north of the centre, is a useful area to consider for food shops, the market hall and a slightly less nightlife-heavy setting. It also gives you access to local restaurants where you can try regional specialities such as biscuit rose de Reims, ham from the Ardennes and Champagne paired with a proper meal rather than a rushed tasting. Leave time for a break in a café around Place Drouet d’Erlon, especially with young children, because cathedral visits and cellar tours can make an otherwise compact day surprisingly tiring.

Reims becomes more expensive and harder to book during major events, summer weekends and the Champagne harvest period, so flexible dates can make a real difference. Before reserving, I check the hotel’s parking arrangements, because a central property may have only limited spaces or a nearby paid car park. If you are arriving by car, ask about access restrictions and unloading luggage before committing to a historic-centre address. Solo travellers may value a staffed reception and a location that feels comfortable after dinner, while couples might prefer a quieter room away from the lift and street-facing windows. Families should confirm adjoining rooms rather than relying on photographs that make compact rooms appear spacious. The best place to stay in Reims is not necessarily the most expensive hotel, but the one that matches your plans, sleep needs and transport arrangements.

Restaurants in Reims

Reims is best known for Champagne, but the city’s restaurant scene deserves more than a quick meal between cellar tours. Around the pedestrian centre, especially near Place Drouet-d’Erlon, Place du Forum and the streets leading towards the cathedral, you will find everything from casual cafés to polished dining rooms. For a traditional taste of the region, look for dishes featuring jambon de Reims, a softly seasoned cooked ham, or desserts made with the city’s famous pink biscuits, biscuits roses de Reims. Champagne is the obvious pairing, and many menus offer bottles from both well-known houses and smaller producers, although prices can climb quickly in the most central restaurants. I find the area around Place du Forum more relaxed for lunch, while the cathedral quarter is convenient but can feel busy during the main sightseeing hours. Families should check menus before sitting down, since some of the more formal places are better suited to long, quiet meals than restless young children. A café stop with hot chocolate and a pastry can be a much saner plan after touring Notre-Dame.

For a special occasion, Le Jardin Les Crayères is one of Reims’ most recognised dining addresses, located at Domaine Les Crayères in a residential part of the city rather than directly in the centre. It is an elegant choice for travellers looking for refined French cooking, attentive service and an extensive Champagne list, but it comes with a high price and a formal atmosphere. The Michelin-starred L’Assiette Champenoise is in nearby Tinqueux, just outside Reims, and is another destination restaurant for serious food lovers. It is not the sort of place to choose casually after a tiring day of cellar visits, so allow time for the meal and arrange transport carefully. In the city centre, Le Foch is known for modern French cuisine and is worth considering for a more polished dinner, while Racine appeals to diners who enjoy creative tasting menus and carefully matched wines. Menus and Michelin distinctions can change, so check the restaurant’s current information before booking. For couples and solo travellers, a counter seat or a shorter lunch menu may be less intimidating than a full evening tasting menu. Families may prefer a brasserie, where service is usually more flexible and ordering one or two courses is easier.

Casual eating in Reims can be just as satisfying, particularly if you avoid treating every meal as a Champagne experience. Café du Palais, close to the cathedral, is a long-established place for a relaxed break and works well when you want coffee, a light meal or a traditional French setting, though its popularity means it may be crowded at peak times. Brasserie Excelsior, near Reims railway station, is practical for an early meal, a final lunch before a train or a pause after walking around the centre. The station area is not the prettiest place to linger, but convenience matters when travelling with children or luggage. I would also leave room for local bakery stops, as Reims is a good city for picking up bread, viennoiseries and the distinctive pink biscuits rather than booking an elaborate restaurant for every meal. Reserve ahead for the city’s better-known dining rooms, especially on Friday and Saturday evenings, and remember that many kitchens follow set lunch and dinner service rather than accepting orders all day. The best restaurants in Reims, France depend on your budget and energy: choose a destination restaurant for one memorable evening, then balance it with an unfussy brasserie, café or bakery meal.

Transport in Reims

Reims does not have a large commercial airport of its own, so most visitors arrive by train or travel overland from Paris. The nearest practical international gateway is Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport, roughly 130 kilometres from Reims. Some high-speed trains run from the airport’s TGV station towards Champagne-Ardenne, although services can be limited and schedules change, so check the connection carefully before booking. Another option is to travel into central Paris and continue from Paris Gare de l’Est, which is usually straightforward but less convenient with tired children and large suitcases. Paris-Vatry Airport, east of Reims, serves a smaller selection of seasonal and low-cost routes, but it is not a dependable choice for most international travellers and public transport links are less simple. A pre-booked taxi or private transfer from an airport can be expensive, especially for a couple or family, while a shared shuttle may take longer. I would compare the full journey, including transfers and luggage, rather than choosing a flight based only on the ticket price.

The main railway station, Gare de Reims, is close to the city centre and within reasonable walking distance of the pedestrian streets, Place Drouet d’Erlon and Reims Cathedral. It is the most useful station for many visitors staying in central Reims. High-speed TGV trains use Champagne-Ardenne TGV, in Bezannes, around seven kilometres southwest of the centre. The journey from Paris Gare de l’Est can take about 45 minutes on a direct TGV, which makes Reims a very manageable day trip, although a return ticket and local transport can add up. From Champagne-Ardenne TGV, Citura tram line B normally provides the simplest connection towards central Reims, with the journey continuing to Gare de Reims. Allow extra time if you have a pushchair, heavy bags or a train reservation to catch, since changing from the TGV platform to the tram is not the same as stepping straight into the historic centre. Gare de Reims also has regional TER services, including routes towards Épernay and other towns in the Champagne region, but trains are less frequent than urban services.

Once you are in town, Citura buses and trams cover the main practical routes. Tram lines A and B cross the city and are especially useful for reaching Champagne-Ardenne TGV, while buses serve neighbourhoods beyond the tram corridor. Tickets can be bought through the local network’s normal sales channels, and they generally need to be validated as instructed before or when boarding. Check the current fare, ticket validity and evening timetable on the Citura website or at a station machine, because transport rules and prices can change. For the cathedral, Palais du Tau, Place Royale and much of the central shopping area, walking is usually easier than taking a bus. The centre is fairly compact, but cobbled sections, traffic crossings and a full day of sightseeing can be tiring for small children. A tram ride is often a welcome break, and Place Drouet d’Erlon has cafés where families can pause, although it can feel crowded at lunchtime and on busy weekends. Taxis are useful for late arrivals, winery appointments outside the centre or travellers with limited mobility, but do not assume one will be waiting at every Champagne house.

For visitors planning cellar tours, public transport requires a little more thought. The major Champagne houses on Avenue de Champagne in Épernay are not in Reims, and travelling between the two cities by TER is usually possible but not as flexible as having a car or organised tour. Within Reims, cycling can work well on calmer streets, but tram tracks, traffic and uneven paving make bikes less relaxing with young children unless everyone is confident in city riding. The city centre is generally manageable for wheelchairs and pushchairs, though older buildings and some station access points may have steps, so checking accessibility before travel is sensible. At Gare de Reims, keep an eye on departure screens and leave time for platform changes. My practical preference is to stay near the central station or within the tram corridor, use the train for intercity travel, and save taxis for the awkward final stretch. That approach keeps Reims public transport affordable and simple without pretending every Champagne excursion can be done effortlessly by tram.

Shopping in Reims

Reims is a comfortable city for a day of shopping, especially if you stay around the pedestrian centre and plan your route on foot. The main retail streets include rue de Vesle, rue Talleyrand, rue de l’Étape and the area around place Drouet-d’Erlon, where you will find familiar fashion brands, beauty shops, department-store shopping and cafés for a pause. The Espace d’Erlon shopping centre is useful when the weather is poor or you need several practical shops in one place, while Galeries Lafayette on rue de Vesle is a sensible stop for clothing, accessories and gifts. Independent boutiques are scattered through the central streets rather than concentrated in one fashionable quarter, so it is worth looking beyond the largest names. I find the centre easiest to explore in the morning, before lunch crowds and coach groups make the pavements feel tighter. Some streets are pedestrianised, but comfortable shoes still matter because a shopping trip can easily turn into several hours of walking.

For food shopping in Reims, start at Les Halles du Boulingrin, a striking covered market near the northern edge of the centre. Its traders are a good place to look for regional cheese, charcuterie, seasonal produce and other ingredients for a picnic or self-catering meal. Market days and individual trader schedules can change, so check locally before making it the only stop in your plan. Around the centre, specialist food shops sell biscuits roses de Reims, a pale pink finger-shaped biscuit traditionally served with Champagne, along with mustard, preserves, chocolates and local confectionery. These make easier gifts than fragile fresh food, particularly if you are travelling by train or flying with limited luggage. Champagne is the obvious purchase, but compare bottles rather than buying the first attractive label near the cathedral. Specialist wine shops and producer boutiques can explain the difference between houses, grower Champagne and styles such as brut or rosé. Ask about packaging and transport, especially in summer. Supermarkets may be cheaper for familiar brands, while cellar doors can offer more personal advice, though tastings are not guaranteed and some popular shops become crowded during weekends and major events.

Reims also works well for shoppers who prefer small design, homeware and second-hand finds, although expectations should be realistic: this is not Paris, and the independent retail scene can be quieter outside the central streets. Look along rue de Mars, rue de Tambour and the lanes near the cathedral for smaller boutiques, gift shops and places selling regional products. The historic centre is attractive, but prices rise around the most touristed areas, and some Champagne-themed souvenirs are more decorative than useful. Families can combine shopping with a break at a café around place Drouet-d’Erlon or a slower walk towards the cathedral; children usually need that pause before the adults have finished browsing. Couples may prefer starting with food stalls and wine shops, then taking coffee in the centre, while solo travellers can cover most of the main shopping streets without needing transport. For a wider selection and fewer interruptions, avoid Saturday afternoon when possible. Check each shop’s current opening days before travelling, since smaller businesses may close for a weekly rest day, seasonal holiday or lunch break.

Nightlife in Reims

Reims nightlife is more relaxed than the party scene in Paris, but it has plenty to offer after the champagne houses close. Most evenings begin around Place Drouet-d’Erlon, the central pedestrian area lined with restaurants, terraces and bars. It is convenient for a first drink, although it can feel touristy and noisy at peak times, especially on Friday and Saturday nights. For a more local atmosphere, walk towards Place du Forum, Rue de Tambour and Rue de Mars, where you will find smaller bars, cocktail menus and places that attract students and residents. Champagne is the obvious choice, and Reims is a good city for comparing styles by the glass, but it is not the only option. Several bars focus on craft beer, gin, wine or cocktails, which helps keep an evening interesting if you do not want sparkling wine all night. Prices vary considerably, and central terraces often charge more than less prominent bars, so checking the menu before sitting down is sensible. I also find that Reims works particularly well for couples who want a late dinner followed by one or two drinks rather than a full night of clubbing.

The city’s champagne bars and wine-focused venues are best enjoyed slowly. A tasting room or intimate cocktail bar suits a date night, while an Irish pub or beer bar is usually a safer choice for an easygoing group. Reims also has a young student population, so the atmosphere becomes livelier later in the evening around the centre and the university side of town. Some venues stay open late, and occasional DJ nights, live music and themed parties add variety, but the club scene is smaller and less dependable than in larger French cities. Names, concepts and opening schedules can change, so check the venue’s current social media or official page on the day you plan to go. That is especially important outside the main tourist season and on Sunday or Monday, when many places are quieter or closed. The historic centre is compact, but a night out still involves more walking than you may expect if you move between the cathedral, the central squares and a club farther away. Comfortable shoes matter, and cobblestones are not kind to narrow heels. For a break, settle into a café terrace near the cathedral or return to Place Drouet-d’Erlon for food. Late-night choices tend to be heavier, such as burgers, pizza or kebabs, rather than elegant regional cooking.

Families will find that Reims is not primarily a family nightlife destination, though an early evening meal and a non-alcoholic drink on a terrace can work well with children. After dark, the central streets remain the easiest area for visitors, but I would keep young children close in crowded bar districts and avoid wandering around unfamiliar streets late at night. Couples can create a pleasant evening by booking dinner, visiting a champagne bar and taking a short walk past the illuminated Notre-Dame de Reims before stopping for dessert or a final drink. Solo travellers should choose busy, well-reviewed venues, tell staff if they feel uncomfortable and use a licensed taxi or a ride service when walking feels impractical. Public transport is useful earlier in the evening, but late-night services may be limited, so check the current timetable rather than assuming trams or buses run all night. Reims is generally easy to explore on foot, yet crowds outside popular bars, higher weekend prices and queues at fashionable venues can take the shine off an unplanned night. My practical advice is to reserve dinner, keep the first drink somewhere central, and leave room in the schedule for a quieter bar instead of trying to fit in too many stops.

Coulture in Reims

Reims is best understood as a city where French history, champagne culture and everyday local life sit close together. Start around the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Reims, one of France’s great Gothic monuments and the traditional coronation church of French kings. Its west façade is crowded with carved figures, including the famous smiling angel, while the interior feels high and spacious even when the square outside is busy. Give yourself time to look at the stained glass, including the modern windows created by Marc Chagall, rather than treating the cathedral as a quick photograph stop. The nearby Palais du Tau adds important context, with displays connected to royal coronations and the cathedral’s religious history. The area around Place Drouet-d’Erlon is convenient for cafés and people-watching, but it can feel touristy and prices are often higher than on quieter streets. For a calmer break, walk towards Place du Forum or settle at a café on a side street away from the main pedestrian route. Families should know that the cathedral steps, cobbled areas and long museum visits can test younger children, so a snack break is not optional planning.

Reims culture extends well beyond its most famous monument. The Musée Saint-Remi, housed in a former abbey beside the Basilica of Saint-Remi, is particularly useful for understanding the city’s Roman past, medieval history and religious importance. The basilica itself is less polished and immediately dramatic than Notre-Dame, but its atmosphere is quieter and its scale gives the neighbourhood a different rhythm. History-minded visitors can also look for traces of the Roman city and the damage caused during the First World War, when Reims suffered severe destruction. In the rebuilt centre, Art Deco details are part of the city’s character: look above shopfronts and along streets near the cathedral instead of focusing only on ground-level attractions. The Carnegie Library, close to Notre-Dame, is another worthwhile stop for architecture lovers, although access and visitor arrangements can vary, so checking current information before making a special trip is sensible. Reims works well for solo travellers who enjoy museums at their own pace, while couples may prefer combining one major museum with a slower walk through the Saint-Remi district.

Champagne is central to the culture of Reims, but it is worth approaching it as a tradition and industry rather than just a tasting opportunity. Major houses such as Veuve Clicquot, Taittinger, Pommery and Ruinart have visitor experiences in or around the city, often in historic chalk cellars carved beneath the ground. Tours usually involve stairs, cool temperatures and a fair amount of standing, so comfortable shoes and a light layer are practical. The famous crayères are memorable, but the large brands can feel organised and commercial, especially during busy periods. Smaller producers in the surrounding Champagne region may offer a more personal perspective, though reaching them generally requires transport and advance planning. For a broader view of local food culture, try regional specialities such as biscuit rose de Reims, a dry pink biscuit traditionally dipped in champagne, and look for restaurants serving classic French cooking rather than assuming every menu will be built around sparkling wine. Champagne tastings are not ideal for driving days, and families should check age policies because some cellar tours are designed mainly for adults.

Daily life gives the city its most convincing cultural details. Shop at Les Halles du Boulingrin, an important covered market with distinctive 1920s architecture, and pay attention to when it is open before planning your visit, since market activity is not constant every day. The surrounding Boulingrin and Jean-Jaurès areas feel more local than the cathedral quarter, with bakeries, wine shops and restaurants used by residents. Reims is also known for the Fêtes Johanniques, events recalling Joan of Arc’s role in the coronation of Charles VII, although dates and programming change from year to year. Art lovers should consider the Chapelle Foujita, decorated by Japanese-French artist Léonard Foujita, but its opening arrangements can be limited, so verify details in advance. The city centre is manageable on foot, yet a full day of cathedral visits, museums and champagne cellars becomes tiring, especially with children. I would plan one substantial cultural stop in the morning, lunch away from the busiest square, and a relaxed afternoon in a café or park rather than trying to collect every attraction. That slower pace leaves room for the small details, from postwar façades to the sound of glasses being set down in a neighbourhood wine bar.

History in Reims

Reims, in northeastern France, is best known as the city of champagne and the place where French kings were crowned, but its history reaches much further back. The story begins with the Remi, a Celtic tribe whose settlement became the Roman city of Durocortorum. Under Roman rule, Reims grew into one of the most important towns in northern Gaul, positioned along major roads linking the region with present-day Paris, Trier and the Rhine. You can still sense that earlier importance in the city’s layout and archaeology, although the Roman past is less immediately visible than the medieval cathedral. The Porte de Mars, a large Roman triumphal arch near the train station, is the most striking survivor. It dates from the third century and is free to view from the surrounding streets, making it an easy first stop before walking towards the historic centre. Reims is compact enough to explore on foot, but its broad avenues and post-war buildings mean it does not feel like a perfectly preserved medieval town. That contrast is part of its character.

Christian history gave Reims an influence far beyond its size. According to tradition, Bishop Remi baptised Clovis, king of the Franks, around 496, although historians continue to discuss the precise details and location of the ceremony. The event helped establish Reims as a major religious centre, and the city later became closely associated with the French monarchy. From the coronation of Louis VIII in 1223 to that of Charles X in 1825, most French kings were crowned at Reims Cathedral, though not every monarch followed the tradition. Joan of Arc’s arrival with Charles VII in 1429 is one of the city’s best-known historical episodes. She helped escort him to Reims, where he was crowned, and her presence is remembered by a statue beside the cathedral. The cathedral itself, officially Notre-Dame de Reims, was begun in 1211 after an earlier church was damaged by fire. Its sculptures, rose windows and soaring Gothic interior are remarkable, but visitors should also look closely at the details damaged during the First World War. The smiling angel on the west façade, restored after being shattered, has become a symbol of the building’s survival.

The First World War changed Reims more dramatically than any earlier conflict. German shelling in 1914 set fire to the cathedral, and much of the city suffered heavy destruction during the fighting. Restoration continued for decades, supported by international donations, including assistance from the Carnegie Endowment. Walking around the cathedral, the Place Drouet-d’Erlon and the streets leading towards the old centre, you will see a mixture of reconstructed historic façades and twentieth-century architecture. The Bibliothèque Carnegie, completed in the 1920s, is an especially elegant reminder of the rebuilding period, while the Musée de la Reddition marks another major moment: on 7 May 1945, Germany’s unconditional surrender was signed in a school building in Reims. The museum is not large, and its wartime maps and original room may appeal more to history-minded travellers than to young children, but it adds useful context to the city’s modern past. Allow more walking time than you might expect, since the main sights are spread across several areas and cobbled sections can be tiring with a pushchair.

Champagne became another important chapter in Reims history, although the vineyards themselves lie beyond the city in the surrounding Champagne wine region. Reims developed as a centre for champagne houses, trade and storage, with historic cellars carved into chalk beneath the streets. Visits to houses such as Taittinger, Pommery, Veuve Clicquot and Ruinart focus on production, branding and the underground crayères, or chalk quarries. Tours can fill up, especially on weekends and during the warmer months, so booking ahead is sensible; tasting visits also tend to be expensive and are not always practical with small children. For a quieter break, choose a café around Place Drouet-d’Erlon or the pedestrian streets near the cathedral, though central terraces can become crowded at lunchtime. I find Reims works particularly well for a two-day trip: couples can combine cathedral architecture with a cellar tour, solo travellers can cover the historic centre easily by tram and on foot, and families may prefer the cathedral, Roman arch and a relaxed meal of local dishes such as jambon de Reims before taking a slower look at the city’s wartime history.